Arriving in Varenna
After a sad wave goodbye to Sorrento and a 3+ hour train ride from Naples, we arrived in Varenna a little travel-weary but wide-eyed. Our VRBO host met us at the station and helped us navigate the steps (and our luggage!) to our apartment—worth every step for that balcony view.
We finally pulled ourselves away for a quick grocery run and dinner at Victoria Grill, then ended the night watching the lake come alive—lights twinkling across the water as the sun slipped away.
Day one, and already completely enchanted. 💛
Day 2 in Varenna – From Menaggio to Post-it Notes
Day 2 in Varenna felt like stepping into a watercolor that kept unfolding with every ferry ride. The ferry system can be a bit tricky to navigate but after picking up a map at the ferry office and studying the schedule, 007 had it figured out! So all I have to do is follow his lead! Easy peasy!
We crossed to Menaggio for a leisurely lakeside lunch, followed by a bit of shopping where I found a beautiful compass for 007 and the most charming set of eight beaded lemon napkin rings to go with the napkins and placemats I purchased in Sorrento.
From there, another ferry carried us to Bellagio—every bit as lovely as imagined. After gelato near the ferry, I came across a silk scarf in the most perfect blend of blue, green, purple, black, white, and pink—impossible to leave behind.
We ended the day as we began, back in Varenna, with dinner at a cozy local restaurant. Our reservation (made in person) was scribbled on a simple Post-it note with our name and time—an endearing, old-school touch that somehow made the evening feel even more authentic.
Day 3 – A Visit to Milan to see The Last Supper by DaVinci
Our visit to Milan was filled with unforgettable moments and incredible beauty around every corner. We explored the magnificent Milan Cathedral both inside and from the rooftop, where the breathtaking views of the city and the intricate cathedral details made the climb completely worthwhile. Seeing The Last Supper by Leonardo da Vinci in person was especially meaningful — one of those experiences that leaves you speechless. We also enjoyed a relaxing lunch at a charming café inside the local mall, beautifully decorated and welcoming. In Italian, its name, “Gatto, Roso” translated to “The Red Cat,” making it feel both cozy and memorable amid the elegance and energy of Milan.
Day 4 – From Villa Cipressi to Fare la Scarpetta
Our fourth day in Varenna was filled with simple pleasures and breathtaking beauty. We began the morning with breakfast at a charming lakeside café, enjoying fresh pastries, American style eggs and bacon and coffee while taking in the peaceful views of Lake Como.
Later, we wandered through the stunning gardens of Villa Cipressi, where colorful flowers, towering cypress trees, and panoramic lake vistas created a picture-perfect setting. We also explored Villa Monastero, admiring its historic charm and spectacular waterfront gardens that seem to stretch endlessly along the shore.
The day concluded with dinner at La Scarpetta, where the meal was so delicious that we happily embraced the Italian tradition of “fare la scarpetta”—using bread to soak up every last bit of the flavorful sauce. As a special reminder of the evening, we purchased beautiful knife rests crafted from Moroccan tiles, a unique keepsake from the restaurant that will always bring back memories of our wonderful day on Lake Como.
Day 5- Villa del Balbianello
Our fifth day in Varenna began with a scenic boat taxi ride across the lake to visit Villa del Balbianello. Perched dramatically on a wooded peninsula, the villa offered stunning views of Lake Como, beautifully manicured gardens, and fascinating history around every corner. After exploring the grounds, we returned to Varenna for a leisurely lunch in the town square, enjoying delicious pizza beneath the shade of plane trees that were just beginning to leaf out for the season. The combination of sparkling lake views, historic beauty, and the simple pleasure of sharing a meal outdoors made for another unforgettable day on Lake Como.
Day 6 – Villa Carlotta and a Private Boat Rental
Day six began with a ferry ride across Lake Como to visit the magnificent Villa Carlotta. We spent the morning exploring its beautiful gardens and breathtaking views of the lake and surrounding mountains. It is definitely worth a visit!
After that amazing morning, we embarked on what we now agree was the highlight of our time on Lake Como. We rented a boat and set out to explore the lake on our own. Cruising across the sparkling water gave us a completely different perspective of the charming villages, elegant villas, and dramatic mountains that surround the lake. The best part was having my own personal boat captain, with 007 at the helm, as we navigated the shoreline, dodged ferries, and discovered hidden coves. It was delightful to soak in the beauty of Lake Como at our own pace. With the sun on the water and breathtaking views in every direction, it was a day filled with adventure, laughter, and memories that will last a lifetime.
Day 7 – Rainy Day for Packing
Day seven was one of only two rainy days during our two week stay in Italy, but even the rain seemed to add to the beauty of the lake. The mist drifting across the water and the sound of raindrops created a peaceful atmosphere that felt uniquely Italian. The timing was perfect, as we spent the day packing and preparing for our journey home. For lunch, we enjoyed a delicious assortment of leftovers from some of our favorite meals of the week while listening to the gentle rumble of thunder echo across the lake. It was a quiet, restful day—one that gave us time to reflect on the wonderful memories we had made and savor our final moments in this beautiful corner of Italy.